This savory entrée is like shepherd’s pie, but the rich filling is made with morel mushrooms instead of ground beef or lamb. Rustic mashed potatoes are not just on top, but also layered with the mushrooms and spread over the top, and the potatoes are roasted in bacon fat instead of boiled, ensuring there’s deep, satisfying flavor throughout the dish.
My long-time pal John Fleer is an award-winning chef who lives and works in the Asheville, North Carolina area. An expert in farm-to-table cooking, John is known for his many contributions to Southern and Appalachian cuisine. He tells us that he first had this pie while he was Executive Chef at Blackberry Farm, a resort in the foothills of The Great Smoky Mountains. John tells us, “This traditional Appalachian recipe was shared with me by Shannon Walker in my early days at Blackberry. He worked as a line cook with me and later went on to become the head preservationist in the culinary department at Blackberry. Shannon, a lifelong resident of East Tennessee, explained that ‘merkel’ is a local nickname for morels.”
John also met Allan Benton while at Blackberry and continues to use the famed Benton’s Bacon in his cooking. Allan and his wife Sharon were guests in the Country Ham episode of The Key Ingredient.
Wild morels are a prized find for foragers across the Appalachian region in the springtime, the same season as ramps. Some lucky foragers find both on the same expedition into the woods.
Recipe Courtesy of John Fleer
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Heat the oven to 350°F.
Place the bacon in an 8-inch cast-iron skillet set over medium-low heat and cook until the bacon renders its fat and turns crisp, about 12 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside until needed.
Place the potatoes on a baking sheet. Measure 1 tablespoon of bacon fat from the reserved skillet and drizzle it over the potatoes. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and toss to coat. Spread the potatoes into a single layer and roast until tender, about 45 minutes.
Transfer the potatoes to a medium saucepan and crush with a potato masher. Set the saucepan over medium heat, add 4 tablespoons of butter and 1/2 cup buttermilk, and stir to create creamy, rustic mashed potatoes. Add a splash more buttermilk, if needed. Cover and keep warm over very low heat.
Increase the oven temperature to 375°F.
Drizzle the oil into a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the morels and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook until the morels turn golden, 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic, ramps, and the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter, and stir to combine. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the morels are tender, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat.
Retrieve the 8-inch skillet that holds the bacon and remaining fat. Distribute the bacon evenly over the bottom of the skillet. Add one-third of the mashed potatoes and spread them evenly. Add half of the morel mixture and press it down into the potatoes to hold the mushrooms in place. Top with another third of the potatoes, then the remaining morels, and then the remaining potatoes. Rake the top of the potatoes with fork tines to create a little texture.
Whisk together the egg and water in a small bowl to create an egg wash, and then brush it over the top of the pie.
Bake until golden brown on top, 25 to 30 minutes. Let rest 5 to 10 minutes before serving warm.
©Copyright 2024 John Fleer
Sheri Castle joins chef John Fleer to learn how to make savory merkel pie with morels she foraged.
John Fleer is a North Carolina-based chef celebrated for his Southern cuisine. Inspired by the“culture of food” he experienced in Italy while a religion and philosophy major at Duke University, John began his culinary career humbly, rolling pasta and baking black tie pie at Aurora Restaurant in Carrboro, North Carolina, to pay for graduate school at UNC. His curiosity piqued, Fleer enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America, where he graduated with honors.Known for pioneering “foothills cuisine” at Blackberry Farm, he later opened Canyon Kitchen, Benne on Eagle and Rhubarb. Located in Asheville, Rhubarb and its companion bakery, The Rhu, showcase his innovative approach to freestyle American cuisine, blending local ingredients with refined techniques. Fleer believes in the transformative power of sharing food, where meals deepen connections and elevate our lives.
Sheri Castle, award-winning food writer and cooking teacher, is known for melding culinary expertise, storytelling and humor, so she can tell a tale while making a memorable meal. Her creative, well-crafted recipes and practical advice inspire people to cook with confidence and enthusiasm. She's written a tall stack of cookbooks and her work appears in dozens of magazines. In 2019, the Southern Foodways Alliance named Sheri among Twenty Living Legends of Southern Food, calling her The Storyteller.
Sheri says that she's fueled by great ingredients and the endless pursuit of intriguing stories, usually about the role that food plays in our lives, families, communities and culture.
When she steps away from the kitchen or a local farm, Sheri enjoys spending quiet time at her home near Chapel Hill. She hails from the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina.
In each episode of "The Key Ingredient," renowned food writer and cooking teacher Sheri Castle celebrates beloved ingredients, tracing their journeys from source to kitchen. Sheri introduces us to farmers, chefs and other food experts, sharing stories, recipes and tips along the way. Join Sheri & friends to learn the stories behind some of North Carolina's most beloved ingredients.